Shiodome-Hamarikyu Garden: Present and Past.

Location:

Situated on Tokyo's southeast side, Shiodome can be reached via the Ginza and Asakusa subway lines, alongside the Yurikamome monorail. Adjacent to Shiodome is JR Shimbashi, serving multiple JR train lines, including the Yamanote line. A brief yet intriguing stroll will take you to Hamarikyu Gardens.  Tokyo Bay meets the border of the gardens to the east, and high-rise offices, homes, and hotels encircle the remainder.

History:

The history of both Shiodome and Hamarikyu Gardens is fascinating. During the Edo Period, Shiodome was a marshland in Tokyo Bay, meaning "place where the tide stops." Over time, the marsh was drained, enabling feudal lords, like the Date clan from Sendai and the Matsudaira clan from Kofu (now Hamarikyu Garden), to build Edo residences. Shiodome supplied water for Edo Castle's moat.

In 1870, during the Meiji Period, Japan's first railway was built here, connecting Shimbashi to Yokohama. Shimbashi Station became a symbol of modernization upon the railway's completion in 1872. After Tokyo Station opened in 1914, it was renamed Shiodome Station, shifting to freight traffic. The original station was lost in the Great Kanto Earthquake fires of 1923. Shiodome Station closed in 1986, with freight yards redeveloped into Shiodome Shiosite, which opened in 2002.

Hamarikyu Gardens exemplifies feudal lord gardens established by the Tokugawa shogun clan in Edo. Covering 25 hectares, it is one of Tokyo's largest remaining feudal gardens.

In 1652, Matsudaira Tsunashige, a Tokugawa relative and lord of the Kofu Domain, received a villa in Edo from Tokugawa Ietsuna, the fourth shogun. Initially, most of the land was shallow sea, and the estate was known by names like Kofu Hama Palace.

Renovations in 1707 created a garden in the northwest corner, a large pond (Shioiri Pond) filled with seawater, and the Otsutai-bashi bridge. Additional structures included a tea house, a Kannon temple, and the Otemon Gate.

 Vibe:

The multiple pedestrian levels, futuristic architecture and lack of crowds make this area surreal.   There are restaurants, cafes and shops, but the real draw is the ability to walk along the architecture. 

The garden transports you into another era.  All of the infrastructure is built in the old style.  The trees, ponds, open spaces and ponds provide respite from the city noise.  Though never too far away, the city and all its white noise stand guard on the borders of this special place, providing an excellent background.

The photographic vibe is one of duality: the garden's old-world style and the Shiodome Shiosite's ultra-modern architecture.  Photographed separately, fantastic images ranging from architecture, long exposure, macro, bird, and landscape/cityscape to street photography are possible.   Combining the garden with the background of the Shiodome buildings makes things interesting.

Conclusion:

These not-often-visited sites provide a wealth of photo opportunities.  Ones that only some people are taking advantage of.  Our Tokyo travel guide would love share his most beloved photography spots with you.  Jeff is a long-time resident of Tokyo, a well-respected street photographer who runs photo workshops and photography classes.  He would love to guide you on private photo tour of Shidome and Hamrikyu Gardens.